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The Perfume Lover: A Personal History of Scent, by Denyse Beaulieu
PDF Ebook The Perfume Lover: A Personal History of Scent, by Denyse Beaulieu
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The Perfume Lover is a candid personal account of the process of composing a fragrance, filled with sensual scent descriptions, sexy tidbits, and historical vignettes.
What if the most beautiful night in your life inspired a perfume?
When Denyse Beaulieu was growing up near Montreal, perfume was forbidden in her house, spurring a childhood curiosity that became an intellectual and sensual passion. It is this passion she pursued all the way to Paris, where she now lives, and which led her to become a respected fragrance writer. But little did she know that it would also lead her to achieve a perfume lover's wildest dream: When Denyse tells famous perfumer Betrand Duchaufour at L'Artisan Parfumeur of a sensual night spent in Seville under a blossoming orange tree, wrapped in the arms of a beautiful man, the story stirs his imagination and together they create a scent that captures the essence of that night. As their unique creative collaboration unfolds, the perfume-in-progress conjures intimate memories, leading Beaulieu to make sense of her life through scents. Throughout the book, she weaves the evocative history of perfumery into her personal journey, in an intensely passionate voice: the masters and the masterpieces, the myths and the myth-busting, down to the molecular mysteries that weld our flesh to flowers.
Now, just to set your nostrils aquiver: Séville à l'aube is an orange blossom oriental with zesty, green and balsamic effects, with notes of petitgrain, petitgrain citronnier, orange blossom, beeswax, incense, and lavender, and is now available at fragrance outlets in the U.S.
- Sales Rank: #283109 in eBooks
- Published on: 2013-03-19
- Released on: 2013-03-19
- Format: Kindle eBook
From Booklist
Perfume seduces, and it is so much a part of dressing to please that it’s often taken for granted. It will be difficult, though, to think of scent in such an uncomplicated fashion after reading this tantalizing mix of history, contemporary events, and autobiography. The author opens her narrative with Bertrand Duchaufour, head of L’Artisan Parfumeur, an organization that creates many of today’s celebrated and favorite odors. He agreed to whip up a scent capturing the essence of her years-ago fling in Seville. Interspersed with Duchaufour’s trials in arriving at the right scent are personal tales of the author’s divorce from Tomcat; her liaisons with Monsieur; her upbringing in Montreal, complete with allergies and Catholic private schooling; and her intense desire to be a Parisian. Integrated in her elegant yet dense prose are definitions (such as perfume is but an aesthetic, cultural, and emotional elaboration of the raw materials provided by nature); acknowledgments of the great figures and great moments in the industry (for instance, the 1982 Dior launch of Poison); and a hint of the science and art that go into the making of a perfume. --Barbara Jacobs
Review
“So deftly does Beaulieu mix the evocatively sensual with the intellectual and literary, it’s as though the pages themselves were scented.” - National Post
"The Perfume Lover is a gorgeous romp through the history of perfume and a personal exploration of its role in Beaulieu's life as a woman and world class sensualist. In lush prose that is as evocative as its subject, Beaulieu describes the alchemy of perfume: its intriguing manufacture, its delicious seductions, and the potent mnemonic rhapsodies ignited by the mystery of olfaction. A thoroughly delectable and passionately intelligent read.” - Debra Ollivier, author of the national bestseller What French Women Know
About the Author
Denyse Beaulieu was born in Winnipeg, grew up in Montreal, and now lives in Paris, where she works as a translator. She is the author of Sex Game Book: A Cultural History of Sexuality. She is also the perfume editor for Citizen K and now devotes herself to smelling, analyzing, and reviewing perfumes for her bilingual blog, Grain de Musc.
Most helpful customer reviews
25 of 25 people found the following review helpful.
Scent-loving dom seeks submissive perfumist
By Sarah Lachance
I'm resisting the urge to rate this book lower than the three stars I've given it. The book isn't badly written, it's just that the narrator is insufferably self-centered. It is, after all, a personal history of scent, so some degree of self-aggrandizement is to be expected. The author interweaves her past experiences with a present-day narrative of developing a scent based upon one of these stories with Bertrand Duchaufour, perfumist of L'Artisan Parfumeur. Interesting enough.
Where the book veers into unlikeable territory is when she moves from personal anecdotes to interviews and interactions with Duchafour and other industry luminaries. She writes him as if he's a reluctant puppet to her string-pulling, pouting when he doesn't take her ideas literally or cancels an appointment or takes too long to get back to her. Her utter insistence in defining her relationship with him and the scent (muse, auteur, author) is insufferably boring. She feels a constant need to establish her dominion over the subject matter and experts. Her explication is less about learning from them and their experiences and more about her demonstrating that she knows as much (if not more) than they do.
Examples:
About Hypnotic Poison: "Was the perfumer Annick Menardo aware of what she was doing when she stuck an almond note into its jasmine sambac, musk and vanilla accords? As any reader of classic English murder mysteries knows, you can tell whether a victim has been poisoned with cyanide from the lingering smell of bitter almonds." Menardo's response when caught with the question? "I don't psychoanalyze myself."
About interviewing Serge Lutens: "This isn't an interview where a person extorts as much as she can from another without disclosing anything. Lutens is asking *me* questions."
And despite having written a memoir about scent and memory, she writes: "The next time someone brings up the perfume-as-instant-flashback cliche, I may scream."
Yawn.
I do have to credit Beaulieu for being willing to write herself honestly, even if the result is in writing a not-so-likeable character. If you're looking for well-balanced, informative writing on scent, with an unobtrusive narrator, check out the work of Chandler Burr.
26 of 27 people found the following review helpful.
Self-absorbed, deeply unlikeable author makes this a very, very hard book to love
By Chris
I couldn't agree more with the others who've said the author of this book is incredibly self-absorbed -- annoyingly so.
This is less pronounced in the beginning of the book and deeply, deeply ingrained toward the end -- so much so that I found myself wanting to literally throw the book across the room. (But, I have a Kindle!)
I loved the historical bits at the beginning; I loved some of her imaginative and creative descriptions of the scents.
But as good as these are, I wouldn't subject myself to this woman again -- even if you offered me an original, unopened bottle of Jacques Fath's Iris Gris. (Or two!)
8 of 8 people found the following review helpful.
If you love perfume & its history, read this book!
By Cozy Cottage
If you love perfume & its history, read this book! But I add a warning: as others have said, the author comes across as self-absorbed. It's hard to write, for others, about something as elusive as scent without being a bit self-absorbed. In order to convey the scent description, it requires that the writer develop a relationship with the perfume, thus imbuing it with personal meaning, whether or not the writer likes the scent. It is possible, however, to do this without becoming overly self-focused, without bragging, without narcissism. Beaulieu fails to do that, but the book is still worth reading, in my view.
The author writes well about scent, both its lingering and its fleeting aspects. She has a good grasp on perfume history and her collaboration with a master perfumer is fascinating, albeit flawed. What I really noticed in this book is how she uses perfume to create changing personas. Someone who bothers to do that after a certain age of course will be self-absorbed. A good part of my love of scent isn't bout me directly, but it links me to history, to exotic places and things of the past, possessions both mysterious and mundane. While using perfume is of course personal, it ties us in to a larger picture, beyond ourselves individually, and the relationship we have with it is unspoken and hopefully, ongoing. For me, a great perfume that I wear takes me somewhere as well as takes me back to myself. Great perfumes that I don't wear will take me somewhere, but not back to myself. So reading about the creation of a perfume based on one memorable, sensual, scent-drenched night of the author's life was fascinating. Since this was a library book there was no sample to sniff, but I'm definitely going to look for the perfume to check it out.
This book includes some of the scents of the 1980s, when perfume was larger than life, but some of it was fabulous. I'm happy to have traveled back there via this story, because the unabashed appreciation for luxury then, and in this book, are well-matched. Learning a bit about great perfumes when one is young is a great way for to work past that phase of loving fruit scents (too bad that for so many, it's a lifelong phase!). Especially appreciated from Beaulieu are her sketches of the Piguet scents Fracas and Bandit.
This author is great at juxtaposing her personal stories and vignettes with her expertise on scent and the histories of some incredible perfumes, cultural norms of perfume choosing and wearing, how scent is an important part of memory, how for some it's an important part of dressing, of etiquette, of tradition and of personal style. All of this in addition to how she and a master perfumer met and began to work to create a scent based on her sensual story of a passionate night in Spain. I was excited to read that it was Spain, not France, which gets overexposed, in my view, in perfume writing.
I do think that her bespoke scent and all it involved happened very serendipitously and she's great at conveying that. If you can take her self-absorption with a big dash of salt, you're likely to enjoy this memoir/history of perfume. Beaulieu's writing reminds me some of Celia Lyttelton in Scent Trail, but with the definitely not needed sex scenes. I'd prefer not to read about the author's sex life, not due to prudery, but because I'd prefer that the author cultivate a bit of mystery and self-possession.
Next I'm going to read The Secret of Chanel No. 5 by Tilar Mazzeo, which I hope is refreshing compared to these self-absorbed, scent-obsessed authors just as the aldehydic No. 5 can be refreshing after too much Opium!
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